Salumerias were once as ubiquitous to Southern Brooklyn as double parked cars. But over the years, tastes changed, new groups moved in, and the younger generation increasingly bought their cold cuts from a supermarket instead of the old fashioned pork store.
Remember that scene from Pope of Greenwich Village where Eric Roberts’ character visits three different specialty stores to buy fixings for a hero sandwich? Yeah, not really happening anymore. When was the last time you even heard of someone under 40 making a special trip to a formaggeria for cheese?
However, in this “what’s old is new again” age of cooking that puts such a heavy emphasis on buzz words like local, artisanal, traditional, authentic, and slow food, it can be comforting to hear when a student of the old pros brings family traditions – as well as some new concepts – to the table.
According to Brooklyn Daily’s Sarah Zorn, combining new innovations with old favorites seem to be the idea behind A.L. Coluccio. This “first-time solo venture” is by Louis Coluccio of Bensonhurst’s famed D. Coluccio and Sons Importers – who will attempt to meld the traditional Italian-American salumeria and grocery store with a modern cafe on Bay Ridge’s 3rd Avenue this August.